Paisan’s

From Madison Pizza Wiki
Revision as of 18:06, 25 October 2026 by Jacques (talk | contribs) (Add 821 University Ave. and the 1960s pizza truck)

Paisan's was an Italian restaurant near the University of Wisconsin campus, and one of the first places in Madison to get a pizza. It was founded in 1949, according to The Capital Times[1], or 1950, according to the State Journal[2], and closed in 2022.

History

Roy and Rose McCormick, who also founded Porta Bella in 1968, opened Paisan's with Rose's brother and sister-in-law, Joe and Bette Troia. Rose was a Troia, of an Italian family from the Greenbush neighborhood[1]. It was "a popular spot for University of Wisconsin-Madison students — and a young Dave Zweifel's introduction to pizza"[1].

In the 1960s Paisan's was at 821 University Ave., and it delivered by truck: in 1966 and 1968 it advertised for a "driver for pizza truck, 2 or 3 nights per week"[3][4]. In early 1975 it moved into University Square, the new shopping mall in the 700 block of University Avenue, where it was "near completion" in February[5]; it was licensed at 80 University Square that May[6], and in August it applied to run an outdoor restaurant in the mall's courtyard[7]. The State Journal described it in 1978 as "Italian dinners, sandwiches and pizza. Unusual, arty decor. Inexpensive. Patio dining ... Bustling business always"[8].

In September 2015 a grease fire in the pizza-oven ventilation system did about $100,000 of damage as the restaurant prepared to open for the day; no one was hurt, and Paisan's reopened on September 19[9].

In 1985 Wally Borowski, Ed Shinnick and Jerry Meier bought the restaurants from Roy McCormick; Meier retired about 2013[2]. All three had worked for McCormick — Shinnick began as a busboy in the 1960s[10][11].

In the 1980s Paisan's was at 80 University Square. A 1984 advertisement called it the "Home of the Garibaldi Sandwich" with "Award Winning Pizza", import beers, carafes of wine and "Student Artwork on Display"[12], and the 1985 and 1986 dining guides a "Longtime local Italian favorite with extra outside cafe seating" and "Award-winning thin-crust pizza"[13][14]. Jay Rath told its history in the Capital Times when Roy McCormick retired in August 1985 after 36 years[15]; that June the paper had counted Paisan's, with Pino's and Gino's, among "the standards by which all other Madison pizzas are judged"[16]. The 1986 license was held by Paisan's Restaurant, Inc., with Gerald A. Meier as agent[17]. Karen Prager reviewed it in May 1989[18].

The move to Wilson Street, 2005–2006

The owners learned around 2001 that the University Square building would be torn down for a $190 million complex; "we really wanted to stay on campus, but we couldn't find a suitable building to buy or rent," Meier said later[19]. In March 2005 the Capital Times pictured him in the dark University Square dining room under the headline "No Square deal"[20], and in June Samara Kalk Derby, who had sat on Borowski's secret for nearly a year, reported the plan: the first floor of the 12-story office building at 131 W. Wilson St., across from the new courthouse, owned by the same landlord, Executive Management Inc., where Cleopatra, the Library and Waterfront 131 had failed. It would seat about 240 as before, with a 65-seat bar, a bigger patio and free underground parking at night; the architect was Ed Solner and the interior designer Harry Krueger, whose first solo job had been the University Square Paisan's[21]. The February 2006 target slipped: Paisan's moved on September 1, 2006, after a 30-year run at University Square[22]. The salvage came along — a mantle from an artist's European house, stained glass, an old Sheboygan bench — into "easily the most luminous restaurant setting in Madison", a circular dining room looking over Monona Terrace to Lake Monona, with waits of an hour and a half on weekends[10]. The menu did not change: "Why mess with a good thing?"[10][22] Paisan's moved several times[2]:

  • the basement of Porta Bella, 425 N. Frances St., 1969 to 1975;
  • University Square, 1975 to 2006;
  • 131 W. Wilson St., 2006 to 2022. From September 2021 the city closed the building over structural concerns more than once, and the restaurant finally closed for good.

The pandemic had already been hard: Paisan's did "a reasonable amount of carryout" in the spring of 2020, and business picked up after it reopened that summer[23]; in December 2020 it advertised Grubhub delivery and "plenty of safe seating inside"[24]. On Friday, September 10, 2021, the city ordered the 12-story building closed because of its failing underground garage. Paisan's reopened on October 22, 2021, after six weeks, closed again in December, reopened in January 2022, and closed for the last time when the building was shut on June 6, 2022[23][25][26]. Wally Borowski, who still made pizzas at 67, held a "wake" for the staff at Porta Bella on June 14, 2022[26], and the city approved the building's demolition on June 27[27].

In December 2023 the owners planned to reopen Paisan's in Porta Bella's basement[2]. It never happened: Porta Bella closed on February 28, 2026, after 58 years, and Borowski and Shinnick retired[28][1].

Pizza

  • "The only pizza served here is thin crust and very crisp," the State Journal wrote in 2006; the 2008 history feature noted the owners had never done pan or deep dish — "we're not out for style, we're just doing what we do best"[10][11].
  • The vegetarian pesto pizza, with a gritty basil-walnut pesto, tomatoes, mushrooms, black olives and mozzarella, was the Capital Times reviewer's favorite in 2007; the Salerno (pepperoni, mushrooms, black olives) and the Bella, with a thick meat sauce, were other specialties. A 12-inch pizza was $16.75[22][10].
  • The trademarked Garibaldi sandwich — ham, salami, spicy cheese, tomatoes and peppers on toasted French bread — was dated 1957 by the menu and 1971 by a 2005 feature; the Porta salad is also trademarked[22][29].

Trivia

  • The 1980 Yellow Pages ad, drawn with the restaurant's arches, offered "custom made pizza", spaghetti and lasagne, called Paisan's the "Home of the Garibaldi Sandwich", and promised imported beer on draught, wine carafes, student art "displayed — sold" and carry-outs until midnight, at 80 University Square[30][31].
  • "A Madison Institution since 1950", the 1995 Yellow Pages ad said, with "genuine Italian thin crust pizza" and award-winning homemade pasta[32].
  • The 2005 and 2006 papers gave the founding as December 31, 1949, 1950 and 1951, and counted the Wilson Street restaurant as the fifth home: Park Street between Johnson Street and University Avenue; University Avenue next to the former Choles Floral; the basement of Porta Bella; University Square; Wilson Street[29][21][10].
  • The founding date has three accounts: 1949 (Capital Times, 2026), 1950 (State Journal, 2023) and 1951 — a 2019 reprint of the paper's 1975 review says Paisan's "first opened in '51 where Vilas Hall is now on University Avenue"[33]. The restaurant's own advertisements in 2012 said "A Madison tradition since 1950"[34], and a 2014 feature placed the start "in 1950 in a little building at the corner of University Avenue and Park Street", with the marinara a recipe of Rose Troia McCormick, wife of the first owner, Roy McCormick[35].
  • The Super Hot pizza was one of the Capital Times' candidates for the area's best pizza in November 2013[36]. Who sold the restaurants to the 1985 buyers is still to be checked in the papers of the 1980s.

Former Locations

  • University Avenue, "where Vilas Hall is now" (from 1949, 1950 or 1951, by the differing accounts)[33].
  • 425 N. Frances St., in the basement of Porta Bella (1969 to 1975).
  • University Square (1975 to September 1, 2006)[22].
  • 131 W. Wilson St. (September 2006 to 2022)[10].

See also

Notes

  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 Rodriguez, A. (2026, March 11). "Visit one of Madison's oldest restaurants on its final night of service." The Capital Times. p. O26. Newspapers.com images 1315337327, 1315337342.
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 Kalk Derby, S. (2023, December 12). "When will Paisan's be back? Co-owner doesn't want brand to 'fade'." madison.com.
  3. ↑ (1966, January 28). Paisan's Restaurant, 821 University Ave., advertises for a pizza-truck driver. The Capital Times. p. 22. Newspapers.com image 519603222.
  4. ↑ (1968, January 22). Paisan's Restaurant, 821 University Ave., advertises for a pizza-truck driver. Wisconsin State Journal. p. 14. Newspapers.com image 404570718.
  5. ↑ (1975, February 5). "New Shopping Mall." The Capital Times. p. 25. Newspapers.com image 520961437.
  6. ↑ (1975, May 28). City of Madison license list, May 1975. Wisconsin State Journal. p. 35.
  7. ↑ (1975, August 15). City Plan Commission hearing notice: outdoor restaurant permit for Paisan's, 80 University Square. Wisconsin State Journal. p. 22. Newspapers.com image 405215388.
  8. ↑ Campbell, G. (1978, May 21). Diner's Scorecard (Grand Pagoda) with a "Recently reviewed" note on Paisan's. Wisconsin State Journal. p. 86. Newspapers.com image 401220665.
  9. ↑ (2015, September 7). "Fire closes Paisan's Downtown restaurant." madison.com.
  10. ↑ 10.0 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5 10.6 Martell, C. (2006, October 8). "New Paisan's keeps traditional menu, lightens up decor." madison.com.
  11. ↑ 11.0 11.1 Wegner, A. N. (2008, May 28). "Through thick and thin: Madison's pizzerias have come a long way from their humble start on Spaghetti Corner." madison.com.
  12. ↑ (1984, October 7). "Madison Area Dining Guide, Fall 1984." Wisconsin State Journal. p. 261. Newspapers.com image 402306059.
  13. ↑ (1985, October 6). "Madison Area Dining Guide, Fall 1985." Wisconsin State Journal. p. 137. Newspapers.com image 401397462.
  14. ↑ (1986, October 5). "Madison Area Dining Guide, Fall 1986." Wisconsin State Journal. p. 168. Newspapers.com image 405302734.
  15. ↑ Rath, J. (1985, August 24). Paisan's, 80 University Square (257-3832): Roy McCormick retiring after 36 years; opened December 31, 1949 with brother-in-law Joseph Troia; moved to University Ave. after a year, then to the Porta Bella basement at 425 N. F…. The Capital Times. p. 3. Newspapers.com image 520007722.
  16. ↑ Egerton, B. (1985, June 22). "Madison has right stuff for making — and eating! — pizza." The Capital Times. p. 14. Newspapers.com image 519961462.
  17. ↑ (1986, May 1). "Legal notice: applications for the sale of beer and/or liquor (City of Madison, 1986–87)." Wisconsin State Journal. p. 30. Newspapers.com images 402295753, 402295768.
  18. ↑ Prager, K. and LaRose, M. (1989, May 6). Dining Out (Prager) on Paisan's: owners Roy McCormick and wife Rose Troia made 'Madison's first thin crust pizza' c. 1951 from Troia-homestead recipes; three moves and a shift to a team of four owners including McCormick's s…. The Capital Times. p. 10. Newspapers.com image 522566896.
  19. ↑ Martell, C. (2009, December 27). "Restaurant graveyards: Nature of the 'feast'." madison.com.
  20. ↑ (2005, March 12). "No Square deal: Businesses scramble with new campus project." The Capital Times. p. 38. Newspapers.com image 525981802.
  21. ↑ 21.0 21.1 Kalk Derby, S. (2005, June 2). "New Paisans location 'secret' a secret no more." madison.com.
  22. ↑ 22.0 22.1 22.2 22.3 22.4 Kalk Derby, S. (2007, November 29). "After 56 years, Paisan's still comforts in new spot." madison.com.
  23. ↑ 23.0 23.1 Wroge, L. (2021, September 12). "City orders Downtown building with Paisan's closed due to 'structural concerns'." madison.com.
  24. ↑ (2020, December 2). Paisan's advertisement: delivery, gift cards and safe seating inside. The Capital Times. p. O27. Newspapers.com image 697545087.
  25. ↑ Kalk Derby, S. (2021, October 21). "Paisan's restaurant could reopen as early as Friday after building's forced closure." madison.com.
  26. ↑ 26.0 26.1 Mosiman, D. (2022, June 16). "Fight to reopen compromised Paisan's restaurant building seems over." madison.com.
  27. ↑ Heidemann, E. (2022, June 28). "Madison Plan Commission OK's demolition permit for building that houses Paisan's restaurant." madison.com.
  28. ↑ Kalk Derby, S. (2026, February 18). "Porta Bella is closing this month after 58 years." madison.com.
  29. ↑ 29.0 29.1 Rath, J. (2005, May 22). "What's on Madison's menu." madison.com.
  30. ↑ (1980). Madison Yellow Pages, 1980 edition (Wisconsin Telephone Co.), 'Pizza' classification, p. 447: listings Barnaby's Family Inn (4802 E. Washington Ave. 241-2131; 6613 Mineral Point Rd. 833-1671), Brat und Brau (1421 Regent; …. Madison telephone directory. p. 447.
  31. ↑ (1980). Madison Yellow Pages, 1980 edition (Wisconsin Telephone Co.), 'Pizza' classification, p. 448: listings Pizza Hut (811 Fern Dr. 238-7361; 4709 Verona Rd. 271-7151; 3059 E. Washington Ave. 249-6439; 2405 S. Park 257-8621) a…. Madison telephone directory. p. 448.
  32. ↑ (1995). Ameritech PagesPlus Yellow Pages, Madison, 1995 edition, 'Pizza' classification, p. 640: display ads — Gino's, 540 State St. ('5 blocks from the Capital'; fettucine Alfredo, stuffed pizza, veal Romano, bar; free delivery …. Madison telephone directory. p. 640.
  33. ↑ 33.0 33.1 Campbell, G. (2019, June 21). "Paisan's: After all these years, still great." madison.com.
  34. ↑ (2012, May 3). Paisan's advertisement: "A Madison tradition since 1950". The Capital Times. p. 20. Newspapers.com image 522584823.
  35. ↑ (2014, December 4). Happy-hour feature on Paisan's: started in 1950 at University Avenue and Park Street by Roy McCormick. The Capital Times. p. 4. Newspapers.com image 520705171.
  36. ↑ (2013, November 20). Best-pizza poll photo page: Porta Alba's Alpina, Greenbush Bar, Glass Nickel's Fetalicious, Grampa's Barberini, Paisan's Super Hot and Salvatore's Fig and Bacon. The Capital Times. p. 13. Newspapers.com image 520984544.
Retrieved from "https://madisonpizza.wiki/index.php?title=Paisan’s&oldid=9884"