The Roman Candle Pizza

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Roman Candle Pizzeria (often Roman Candle Pizza) was a local pizza chain founded by Brewer Stouffer, who began building the first Roman Candle, on Williamson Street, in 2004[1]. At its largest it had six locations, and it was known for using more than 50 local products[1]. The last store, in Middleton, closed in February 2023[2].

History

Williamson Street, 2005

Thomas Cranley, who had done design and construction work on Natt Spil, the Flatiron Tavern and two Barriques for the Berge brothers, and Brewer Stouffer, a filmmaker he met while Stouffer was shooting the Natt Spil opening, announced the Roman Candle in February 2005 for 1054 Williamson St., a tattered former Alcoholics Anonymous clubhouse at the corner of Ingersoll Street. They named it for the fireworks in a video Stouffer had shot of Cranley's band, the Great Depression, and planned boutique pizza by the slice, custom slices in under five minutes, their own sausage, ice cream and neighborhood delivery; the kitchen manager, Jason Levy, came from the Madison Club, Pizzeria Uno and Johnny Delmonico's[3]. It was "open just a week" on March 25, 2005[4], and "took off instantly like, yes, a roman candle": within a month tables filled by early evening, chairs stood on the sidewalk for the waiting, and the room — Civic Center lights, cloth panels from the Helen C. White library, century-old flooring as tabletops — held about 50[5]. Slices were $2.50 plus 50 cents a topping[5], and the Daily Cardinal's reviewer praised the soups and the Roman Candle Split[6]. Michael Muckian gave the month-old restaurant three stars[7].

Middleton, 2007

The second Roman Candle, at 1920 Parmenter St. in Middleton, was reviewed as new in May 2007: a renovated old building with an upstairs, a full bar under a vintage rocket-shaped playground swing, gumball machines and a Chocolate Shoppe ice-cream stand, and pizza that was "certainly a contender for the best pie in the area"[8][9]. In the wheat-price squeeze of 2008 Stouffer and Cranley stopped drawing paychecks rather than raise prices — flour cost three times what it had nine months earlier[10] — and by that May Stouffer said "we're a much better business now"[11]. About 70 percent of the business was dine-in, so the Super Bowl mattered less than at delivery places; the biggest day was Valentine's Day, with heart-shaped pizzas[12].

Later growth

The chain grew to six locations: Williamson Street, Monroe Street, Middleton, Fitchburg, Whitefish Bay, and one at the Madison Children's Museum[1]. Stouffer's own account in 2022: he opened the Williamson Street pizzeria with a partner, Thomas Cranley, in 2005; Fitchburg followed in 2010, the Children's Museum counter in 2011 and Monroe Street in 2016, and Whitefish Bay ran for five years until 2018[13]. The Fitchburg store, at 2685 Research Park Dr., was advertised as the "South Location – NOW OPEN!" in January 2010, when the other two were at 1920 Parmenter St. in Middleton and 1054 Williamson St.[14] In June 2011 Roman Candle took over the cafe at the Madison Children's Museum, 100 N. Hamilton St., from Bean Sprouts, as a grab-and-go counter called "Sparkler" selling $3 slices made at the Williamson Street kitchen[15][16]. A 2010 story described Tom Cranley as having started Roman Candle on Willy Street and co-owning three of the stores[17]; the 2014 account credited Stouffer with the founding in 2005 and listed Middleton in 2007, Fitchburg in 2010 and Whitefish Bay in December 2013, with a 16-inch cheese pizza from $13[18].

In 2015 Stouffer announced a franchising push, with a $30,000 franchise fee[19]. The Monroe Street store, announced in June 2016 for the Victor Allen's coffee-shop space at 2623 Monroe St. — about 3,000 square feet and 80 seats[20] — closed on December 14, 2019, having lost a quarter of its sales during the street's reconstruction, and Fitchburg on December 21, 2019, for lack of staff[21].

In the first weeks of the COVID-19 shutdown Roman Candle lost 30 to 50% of its sales[22]. The Children's Museum closed in March 2020 and the counter there never reopened. Roman Candle got no Restaurant Revitalization Fund grant, gave away about 5,000 meals to first responders, and in 2022 sales on Williamson Street were still 30 to 40% below 2019[13]. The original Williamson Street store closed on May 27, 2022, in its 18th year[13]: "we just never quite recovered from COVID"[2].

Stouffer announced in January 2023 that the Middleton store, part of Middleton for about 15 years, would close after February 4. It was still profitable, but staff had become hard to find; he had an accepted offer on the building and was working full time as a consultant[2].

Pizza

  • The Pestoral — pesto, feta and mozzarella, artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers, kalamata olives and roma tomatoes — was praised in the first reviews of 2005 and was the best seller in 2009[5][12]. Other early specialty pies: Dead Man Walking (meat), Animal Lovers (vegetables), a spicy Roman Candle with "Fireworks Sauce"[6], and in Middleton the Algo Malo (cubed beets, Alfredo sauce, roasted garlic, walnuts, caramelized onions, blue cheese and arugula), the Greek, and the PPPepperoni with three spicy sausages[8][9].
  • The Algo Malo pizza was pictured with the State Journal's report of the closing[2].

Former Locations

  • 1054 Williamson St. (March 2005 to May 2022; a later account said 2004)[4]. Sultan opened there in May 2023[23].
  • 2623 Monroe St. (2016 to December 14, 2019)[21]. Alimentari, an Italian deli, opened there in February 2025[24].
  • 1920 Parmenter St., Middleton (by May 2007 to February 2023)[9]. Fajitas, Tapas & Bar opened there in June 2023[25], and Thalaivas Indian N Chinese Kitchen in 2024[26].
  • 2685 Research Park Dr., Fitchburg (open by January 2010[14] to December 21, 2019[21]).
  • Whitefish Bay (December 2013 to 2018), and the Madison Children's Museum, 100 N. Hamilton St., called Sparkler (mid-June 2011[15] to March 2020)[1][13].

See also

Notes

  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 Euseary, A. (2023, January 25). "Burned out: Roman Candle owner reflects on closing his pizza business." The Capital Times. p. O29. Newspapers.com image 921117520.
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 Kalk Derby, S. (2023, January 18). "Remaining Roman Candle Pizza to close; 'restaurant work is not easy'." madison.com.
  3. ↑ Kalk Derby, S. (2005, February 17). "New pizzeria to light up Willy St." madison.com.
  4. ↑ 4.0 4.1 Troller, S. (2005, March 25). "Willy St. gets comfy pizzeria." The Capital Times. p. 18. Newspapers.com image 525981911.
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 Martell, C. (2005, May 1). "Pizzeria delivers what neighborhood ordered." madison.com.
  6. ↑ 6.0 6.1 Stadler, E. (2005, April 28). "Roman Candle offers illuminating Italian fare." The Daily Cardinal.
  7. ↑ Muckian, M. (2005, April 16). "Roman Candle lights up Willy St." The Capital Times. p. 28. Newspapers.com image 525985655.
  8. ↑ 8.0 8.1 Martell, C. (2007, May 27). "Standout pizza at Middleton's new Roman Candle." madison.com.
  9. ↑ 9.0 9.1 9.2 (2007, May 5). Review of the new Roman Candle Pizzeria, 1920 Parmenter St., Middleton (three stars). The Capital Times. p. 29. Newspapers.com image 522528584.
  10. ↑ Simms, P. (2008, March 14). "High cost of wheat affects treats." madison.com.
  11. ↑ (2008, May 15). Restaurants and the economy: Brewer Stouffer on Roman Candle's finances. The Capital Times. p. 12. Newspapers.com image 522443634.
  12. ↑ 12.0 12.1 Dean, K. (2009, December 29). "Let's Eat for $7.70: Through thick or thin, pizza's a pleaser." madison.com.
  13. ↑ 13.0 13.1 13.2 13.3 Kalk Derby, S. (2022, May 21). "Roman Candle on Williamson Street closing, 'It's just a really untenable situation'." madison.com.
  14. ↑ 14.0 14.1 (2010, January 28). Roman Candle advertisement: West 1920 Parmenter St., East 1054 Williamson St., "South Location – NOW OPEN!" at 2685 Research Park Dr. The Capital Times. p. 3. Newspapers.com image 522529232.
  15. ↑ 15.0 15.1 Dean, K. (2011, May 19). "Table Talk: Roman Candle replacing Bean Sprouts at Madison Children's Museum." madison.com.
  16. ↑ (2011, September 8). Review of Roman Candle's "Sparkler" counter at the Madison Children's Museum. The Capital Times. p. 8. Newspapers.com image 522460683.
  17. ↑ Kalk Derby, S. (2010, May 4). "There's more to Supreme Pizza than oodles of spaghetti." madison.com.
  18. ↑ Adams, B. (2014, January 31). "Local pizza also shines on Super Bowl Sunday." madison.com.
  19. ↑ Kalk Derby, S. (2015, October 14). "Restaurant News: Roman Candle pizza looking to franchise, and spread the 'local'." madison.com.
  20. ↑ Christians, L. (2016, June 29). "Roman Candle Pizzeria plans fifth Madison location on Monroe Street." madison.com.
  21. ↑ 21.0 21.1 21.2 Kalk Derby, S. (2019, December 9). "Roman Candle closing 2 of its 4 local restaurants." madison.com.
  22. ↑ Rickert, C. (2020, March 28). "Quintessential American delivery: Pizzerias adjust, hope to ride out COVID-19 pandemic." madison.com.
  23. ↑ Kalk Derby, S. (2023, October 15). "No-tipping newcomer deserves lots of praise." madison.com.
  24. ↑ (2025, August 27). Alimentari's second deli at 2623 Monroe St. The Capital Times. p. O32. Newspapers.com image 1243213521.
  25. ↑ Kalk Derby, S. (2023, December 28). "13 restaurants or bars in the Madison area that closed in 2023." madison.com.
  26. ↑ Kalk Derby, S. (2025, January 1). "54 Madison-area restaurants, bars and cafes that opened in 2024." madison.com.
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