Sal’s Pizzeria: Difference between revisions
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'''Sal's Pizzeria''' was a New York-style slice shop at 313 State St. from October 1997 to September 1999, when it became [[Casa Bianca]] and, later, [[Pizza Di Roma]]. A second, unrelated Sal's Pizzeria was run at [[15 North Butler Street|15 N. Butler St.]] by the Casa Bianca family in 2005 and 2006<ref name="mc-2005-12-15-sals-pizzeria">Kalk Derby, S. (2005, December 15). [https://madison.com/entertainment/article_3c032bde-5fae-5d72-bd6a-7797821acdbb.html "Sal's Pizzeria helps a family tradition grow."] ''madison.com''.</ref>. | '''Sal's Pizzeria''' was a New York-style slice shop at 313 State St. from October 27, 1997<ref name="ct-1997-11-01-p43">Kalk, S. (1997, November 1). "It's New York-style pizza, and it's darn good eating." ''The Capital Times''. p. 43. Newspapers.com image [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522189660/ 522189660].</ref> to September 1999, when it became [[Casa Bianca]] and, later, [[Pizza Di Roma]]. A second, unrelated Sal's Pizzeria was run at [[15 North Butler Street|15 N. Butler St.]] by the Casa Bianca family in 2005 and 2006<ref name="mc-2005-12-15-sals-pizzeria">Kalk Derby, S. (2005, December 15). [https://madison.com/entertainment/article_3c032bde-5fae-5d72-bd6a-7797821acdbb.html "Sal's Pizzeria helps a family tradition grow."] ''madison.com''.</ref>. | ||
==History== | ==History== | ||
The company But-Lo LLC applied for a liquor license for "Sal's Pizzeria, 313 State St." in September 1997, with Eugene K. Gowan as agent<ref name="ct-1997-09-02-p21">(1997, September 2). "New liquor and beer license applications, September 1997." ''The Capital Times''. p. 21. Newspapers.com images [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522095235/ 522095235], [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522095342/ 522095342].</ref>; the council granted it on September 16<ref name="ct-1997-10-03-p18">(1997, October 3). "Common Council proceedings, September 16, 1997." ''The Capital Times''. p. 18. Newspapers.com image [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522530999/ 522530999].</ref>. At the end of the month the "authentic New York style pizza joint on State Street" advertised for counter help, pizza makers and kitchen staff, "all shifts and positions": "Enthusiasm, character are more important than experience. Get in on the ground floor of this exciting concept."<ref name="wsj-1997-09-28-p92">(1997, September 28). "Counter & Kitchen — Now Hiring! Sal's Pizzeria." ''Wisconsin State Journal''. p. 92. Newspapers.com images [https://www.newspapers.com/image/401436118/ 401436118], [https://www.newspapers.com/image/401437056/ 401437056], [https://www.newspapers.com/image/401700069/ 401700069], [https://www.newspapers.com/image/401700530/ 401700530].</ref> | |||
It opened on Monday, October 27, 1997, next to Zorba's, with a view of the lit Parthenon across the street and a neon motto, "A slice of New York on State Street". Samara Kalk reviewed it that Saturday and gave it three stars: "Transplanted New Yorkers Rob LoBreglio and Eliot Butler, the entrepreneurial whiz kids who brought Madison its first brew pub, the Great Dane, have another triumph on their hands." It was open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, "till bartime in a week or two", for dining in and carry-out, and on its second night nearly every table was full. Kalk added that "Madison's first New York-style pizza parlor, Rozino's, is insulated by a couple of blocks but is also sure to suffer"<ref name="ct-1997-11-01-p43" />. The first week was "twice what we expected", LoBreglio said. After a packed Friday and Saturday the shop closed on Sunday and Monday, November 2 and 3, with a sign on the door promising to reopen "when we can serve you the best pizza possible"; a cooler had failed and ruined the dough, "but mainly it was human exhaustion" after 19-hour days. It reopened on the Tuesday with more staff trained. The third partner, Gene Gowan, had worked at the Dining Room and L'Etoile<ref name="ct-1997-11-08-p41">Kalk, S. (1997, November 8). "Sal's success almost too much for it to handle." ''The Capital Times''. p. 41. Newspapers.com image [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522191880/ 522191880].</ref>. In December the State Journal's Dave Becker made it one of two "new contenders" for Madison's best pizza, alongside the [[Urban Pizza Cafe|Urban Pizza Co.]]: "From the extraordinary crust to the large selection of creative toppings, this may well be the best regular pizza in Madison." By then the hours were 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Wednesday, to midnight Thursday to Saturday and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday, the beers on tap included the Great Dane's, and orders were called out by number from the counter<ref name="wsj-1997-12-07-p56">Becker, D. and Pizza), D. B. a. C. M. (1997, December 7). "Two pizzerias vie for best of Madison's best new eats." ''Wisconsin State Journal''. p. 56. Newspapers.com image [https://www.newspapers.com/image/401422712/ 401422712].</ref>. On December 21 its employees spotted the fire at the Parthenon and called it in<ref name="ct-1997-12-22-p7">(1997, December 22). "Parthenon fire." ''The Capital Times''. p. 7. Newspapers.com image [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522207018/ 522207018].</ref>. | |||
Sal's opened in October 1997 on the 300 block of State Street, "an exciting time for those who like New York pizza sold by the slice. Not only was Sal's cheap and hot but there were dozens of slices to choose from and the mozzarella was full-flavored and generous," Samara Kalk recalled in June 1999<ref name="wsj-1999-06-17-p64">Kalk, S. (1999, June 17). "Gila Monster bites dust; Cleveland's takes break." ''Wisconsin State Journal''. p. 64. Newspapers.com image [https://www.newspapers.com/image/404115636/ 404115636].</ref>. Its owners were Eliot Butler and Rob LoBreglio of the Great Dane Pub & Brewing Co., Butler the majority partner; the city licensed it in 1999 to But-Lo LLC<ref name="ct-1999-05-26-p7">(1999, May 26). City of Madison 1999–2000 alcohol license renewals, part 2: Liquor & Beer Class B (#159–458): But-Lo LLC dba Sal's Pizzeria 313 State St.; First Madco Inc. dba Rocky Rococo 7952 Tree Ln.; Mineral Spirits Inc. dba Edwardo's N…. ''The Capital Times''. p. 7. Newspapers.com images [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522006391/ 522006391], [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522007482/ 522007482].</ref><ref name="wsj-1999-08-26-p61">Kalk, S. (1999, August 26). Sal's listed for sale; Glass Nickel expands to west side. ''Wisconsin State Journal''. p. 61. Newspapers.com images [https://www.newspapers.com/image/402056959/ 402056959], [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522664495/ 522664495].</ref>. The Bassett Street pizza parlor Casa Bianca opened at about the same time<ref name="mc-2005-12-15-sals-pizzeria" />. | Sal's opened in October 1997 on the 300 block of State Street, "an exciting time for those who like New York pizza sold by the slice. Not only was Sal's cheap and hot but there were dozens of slices to choose from and the mozzarella was full-flavored and generous," Samara Kalk recalled in June 1999<ref name="wsj-1999-06-17-p64">Kalk, S. (1999, June 17). "Gila Monster bites dust; Cleveland's takes break." ''Wisconsin State Journal''. p. 64. Newspapers.com image [https://www.newspapers.com/image/404115636/ 404115636].</ref>. Its owners were Eliot Butler and Rob LoBreglio of the Great Dane Pub & Brewing Co., Butler the majority partner; the city licensed it in 1999 to But-Lo LLC<ref name="ct-1999-05-26-p7">(1999, May 26). City of Madison 1999–2000 alcohol license renewals, part 2: Liquor & Beer Class B (#159–458): But-Lo LLC dba Sal's Pizzeria 313 State St.; First Madco Inc. dba Rocky Rococo 7952 Tree Ln.; Mineral Spirits Inc. dba Edwardo's N…. ''The Capital Times''. p. 7. Newspapers.com images [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522006391/ 522006391], [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522007482/ 522007482].</ref><ref name="wsj-1999-08-26-p61">Kalk, S. (1999, August 26). Sal's listed for sale; Glass Nickel expands to west side. ''Wisconsin State Journal''. p. 61. Newspapers.com images [https://www.newspapers.com/image/402056959/ 402056959], [https://www.newspapers.com/image/522664495/ 522664495].</ref>. The Bassett Street pizza parlor Casa Bianca opened at about the same time<ref name="mc-2005-12-15-sals-pizzeria" />. | ||
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==Pizza== | ==Pizza== | ||
* In its first weeks Sal's sold slices from $1.75 for cheese to $2.50 for the specialties — "a bit higher than the Madison average but well worth it" — and whole pies from $12 to $15. There were 20 specialty pizzas: Chicken Parmigiana and Lasagna (ricotta and ground beef under the mozzarella) were Kalk's two slices; others were pesto with roasted red pepper, ziti, hot chicken with wing sauce and bleu cheese, salad pizza, grilled cheese, Philly cheese-steak, and a "white with spinach" slice spread with ricotta instead of tomato sauce and topped with mozzarella and sauteed spinach, "a rich, savory change of pace". The crust was "hearty, yeasty … thin and airy enough that it's a pleasure to chew yet substantial and crispy enough to stand up to the toppings"<ref name="ct-1997-11-01-p43" /><ref name="wsj-1997-12-07-p56" />. | |||
* Garlic knots, "garlic-studded balls of pizza dough baked to a crisp exterior", were $1 an order, and five came with the $6.95 eggplant parmigiana. The kitchen also made calzones, salads, "Happy Roll" sandwiches and nearly a dozen pastas, and the staff wore T-shirts reading "Damn Right It's Good Pizza"<ref name="ct-1997-11-01-p43" /><ref name="wsj-1997-12-07-p56" />. | |||
* New York-style pizza by the slice, with "dozens of slices to choose from" in 1997<ref name="wsj-1999-06-17-p64" />. A house pie was 20 inches with 18 ounces of mozzarella<ref name="wsj-1999-06-24-p64" />. Readers in 1999 also praised the garlic knots<ref name="wsj-1999-08-12-p60" />. | * New York-style pizza by the slice, with "dozens of slices to choose from" in 1997<ref name="wsj-1999-06-17-p64" />. A house pie was 20 inches with 18 ounces of mozzarella<ref name="wsj-1999-06-24-p64" />. Readers in 1999 also praised the garlic knots<ref name="wsj-1999-08-12-p60" />. | ||
==Former Locations== | ==Former Locations== | ||
* 313 State St. (October 1997 to September 1999 | * 313 State St. (October 27, 1997<ref name="ct-1997-11-01-p43" /> to September 1999<ref name="wsj-1999-06-24-p64" /><ref name="wsj-1999-10-21-p64" />), next to Zorba's. Later [[Casa Bianca]] and [[Pizza Di Roma]]. | ||
==See also== | ==See also== | ||
Revision as of 15:05, 24 October 2026
Sal's Pizzeria was a New York-style slice shop at 313 State St. from October 27, 1997[1] to September 1999, when it became Casa Bianca and, later, Pizza Di Roma. A second, unrelated Sal's Pizzeria was run at 15 N. Butler St. by the Casa Bianca family in 2005 and 2006[2].
History
The company But-Lo LLC applied for a liquor license for "Sal's Pizzeria, 313 State St." in September 1997, with Eugene K. Gowan as agent[3]; the council granted it on September 16[4]. At the end of the month the "authentic New York style pizza joint on State Street" advertised for counter help, pizza makers and kitchen staff, "all shifts and positions": "Enthusiasm, character are more important than experience. Get in on the ground floor of this exciting concept."[5]
It opened on Monday, October 27, 1997, next to Zorba's, with a view of the lit Parthenon across the street and a neon motto, "A slice of New York on State Street". Samara Kalk reviewed it that Saturday and gave it three stars: "Transplanted New Yorkers Rob LoBreglio and Eliot Butler, the entrepreneurial whiz kids who brought Madison its first brew pub, the Great Dane, have another triumph on their hands." It was open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, "till bartime in a week or two", for dining in and carry-out, and on its second night nearly every table was full. Kalk added that "Madison's first New York-style pizza parlor, Rozino's, is insulated by a couple of blocks but is also sure to suffer"[1]. The first week was "twice what we expected", LoBreglio said. After a packed Friday and Saturday the shop closed on Sunday and Monday, November 2 and 3, with a sign on the door promising to reopen "when we can serve you the best pizza possible"; a cooler had failed and ruined the dough, "but mainly it was human exhaustion" after 19-hour days. It reopened on the Tuesday with more staff trained. The third partner, Gene Gowan, had worked at the Dining Room and L'Etoile[6]. In December the State Journal's Dave Becker made it one of two "new contenders" for Madison's best pizza, alongside the Urban Pizza Co.: "From the extraordinary crust to the large selection of creative toppings, this may well be the best regular pizza in Madison." By then the hours were 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Wednesday, to midnight Thursday to Saturday and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday, the beers on tap included the Great Dane's, and orders were called out by number from the counter[7]. On December 21 its employees spotted the fire at the Parthenon and called it in[8].
Sal's opened in October 1997 on the 300 block of State Street, "an exciting time for those who like New York pizza sold by the slice. Not only was Sal's cheap and hot but there were dozens of slices to choose from and the mozzarella was full-flavored and generous," Samara Kalk recalled in June 1999[9]. Its owners were Eliot Butler and Rob LoBreglio of the Great Dane Pub & Brewing Co., Butler the majority partner; the city licensed it in 1999 to But-Lo LLC[10][11]. The Bassett Street pizza parlor Casa Bianca opened at about the same time[2].
In June 1999 Kalk wrote that the slices had lately been "dry and uninspired", which set off a readers' debate over Sal's and Casa Bianca. General manager David Boyer answered that the recipe had not changed and that the cooks weighed the cheese: a 20-inch house pie carried 18 ounces[9][12]. Sal's then took a half-page advertisement in The Onion offering lunch to anyone who wrote the columnist in its defense; 142 people took a slice, and the letters called it "the greatest pizza in all of Madison", "the only place that will still sell food for a reduced rate at 4 a.m." and "the best pizza west of Brooklyn"[13].
Two weeks later the owners listed the restaurant in the trade magazine Pizza Today — "Operating Pizzeria in Madison, Wisconsin. 2,300 square feet. Buy out or sublet, fully loaded" — at $200,000 for the equipment, lease, recipes, name and a non-competition agreement. Running the Great Dane, which was approaching its fifth birthday, was "more than enough work", Butler said[11]. Nafi Elmazi of Casa Bianca took it over and reopened it in September 1999, keeping the Casa Bianca name[14]. A year later Kalk noted that the State Street Sal's "is no longer in business"[15].
Pizza
- In its first weeks Sal's sold slices from $1.75 for cheese to $2.50 for the specialties — "a bit higher than the Madison average but well worth it" — and whole pies from $12 to $15. There were 20 specialty pizzas: Chicken Parmigiana and Lasagna (ricotta and ground beef under the mozzarella) were Kalk's two slices; others were pesto with roasted red pepper, ziti, hot chicken with wing sauce and bleu cheese, salad pizza, grilled cheese, Philly cheese-steak, and a "white with spinach" slice spread with ricotta instead of tomato sauce and topped with mozzarella and sauteed spinach, "a rich, savory change of pace". The crust was "hearty, yeasty … thin and airy enough that it's a pleasure to chew yet substantial and crispy enough to stand up to the toppings"[1][7].
- Garlic knots, "garlic-studded balls of pizza dough baked to a crisp exterior", were $1 an order, and five came with the $6.95 eggplant parmigiana. The kitchen also made calzones, salads, "Happy Roll" sandwiches and nearly a dozen pastas, and the staff wore T-shirts reading "Damn Right It's Good Pizza"[1][7].
- New York-style pizza by the slice, with "dozens of slices to choose from" in 1997[9]. A house pie was 20 inches with 18 ounces of mozzarella[12]. Readers in 1999 also praised the garlic knots[13].
Former Locations
- 313 State St. (October 27, 1997[1] to September 1999[12][14]), next to Zorba's. Later Casa Bianca and Pizza Di Roma.
See also
Notes
- ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 Kalk, S. (1997, November 1). "It's New York-style pizza, and it's darn good eating." The Capital Times. p. 43. Newspapers.com image 522189660.
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 Kalk Derby, S. (2005, December 15). "Sal's Pizzeria helps a family tradition grow." madison.com.
- ↑ (1997, September 2). "New liquor and beer license applications, September 1997." The Capital Times. p. 21. Newspapers.com images 522095235, 522095342.
- ↑ (1997, October 3). "Common Council proceedings, September 16, 1997." The Capital Times. p. 18. Newspapers.com image 522530999.
- ↑ (1997, September 28). "Counter & Kitchen — Now Hiring! Sal's Pizzeria." Wisconsin State Journal. p. 92. Newspapers.com images 401436118, 401437056, 401700069, 401700530.
- ↑ Kalk, S. (1997, November 8). "Sal's success almost too much for it to handle." The Capital Times. p. 41. Newspapers.com image 522191880.
- ↑ 7.0 7.1 7.2 Becker, D. and Pizza), D. B. a. C. M. (1997, December 7). "Two pizzerias vie for best of Madison's best new eats." Wisconsin State Journal. p. 56. Newspapers.com image 401422712.
- ↑ (1997, December 22). "Parthenon fire." The Capital Times. p. 7. Newspapers.com image 522207018.
- ↑ 9.0 9.1 9.2 Kalk, S. (1999, June 17). "Gila Monster bites dust; Cleveland's takes break." Wisconsin State Journal. p. 64. Newspapers.com image 404115636.
- ↑ (1999, May 26). City of Madison 1999–2000 alcohol license renewals, part 2: Liquor & Beer Class B (#159–458): But-Lo LLC dba Sal's Pizzeria 313 State St.; First Madco Inc. dba Rocky Rococo 7952 Tree Ln.; Mineral Spirits Inc. dba Edwardo's N…. The Capital Times. p. 7. Newspapers.com images 522006391, 522007482.
- ↑ 11.0 11.1 Kalk, S. (1999, August 26). Sal's listed for sale; Glass Nickel expands to west side. Wisconsin State Journal. p. 61. Newspapers.com images 402056959, 522664495.
- ↑ 12.0 12.1 12.2 Kalk, S. (1999, June 24). "Sal's vs. Casa Bianca: the great pizza lovers' debate." Wisconsin State Journal. p. 64. Newspapers.com image 404124226.
- ↑ 13.0 13.1 Kalk, S. (1999, August 12). "A debate that won't die: Sal's fans saucily defend pizzeria." Wisconsin State Journal. p. 60. Newspapers.com image 404034329.
- ↑ 14.0 14.1 Kalk, S. (1999, October 21). "Wild Grains to fill Knickerbocker Place bakery void." Wisconsin State Journal. p. 64. Newspapers.com images 401929879, 401929898.
- ↑ Kalk, S. (2000, September 21). "Pie in the face." The Capital Times. p. 61. Newspapers.com image 522186478.
